Rogue + Wolf’s Journey: Fashion, Technology, and Ethics in the Age of AI
You might have noticed the recent explosion of Artificial Intelligence (AI) software and AI-enabled tools. The latest AI technologies are seeing massive and rapid adoption across all industries.
You might also have noticed the long threads of comments in our social media that mostly revolve around the demand to “stop using AI”. We have noticed for sure. 😅
We generally prefer to stay in our cave and design but we believe this situation demands a public conversation. Grab some cold brew coffee or a fine chamomile-lavender infusion and sit back for a relaxed read.
Our Passion
We, Eloise and Michael, started Rogue + Wolf in 2012 from our living room with a crazy vision: let’s use 3D printing to manufacture products people enjoy, sidestepping traditional manufacturing. 3D printing had just become available to consumers at scale through companies like Shapeways and we thought: “surely we can use it for full manufacturing of retail-ready products... right?”. Wild idea at the time but we took a leap of faith! Long story short, we decided that jewellery was the only (barely) viable product we could personally enjoy making. Fast forward a few years and we were in disbelief as thousands of people were enjoying our black nylon, 3D printed jewellery that seemed like wild fantasy at conception.
That was the start of Rogue + Wolf but our story should start even further back. The two of us have been a couple IRL for 20+ years. At around 2005 we came across the work of futurist and inventor Ray Kurzweil, well summarised in his book The Singularity Is Near. We were techno-optimists and forward thinking since young, before we even met, but reading about the possible future and how soon this could arrive blew our minds. We believed and agreed with Ray’s analysis and kept our eyes open for early corroborating evidence.
3D printing was our first intimate contact with future technologies, our promised sci-fi future. And we dove right in, knowing that we were possibly too early and 3D printing was not quite ready for mass adoption yet. We think that gamble paid off and even today, 12 years later, it’s still kind of early for mass adoption of 3D printing. But early adoption is in the core of Rogue + Wolf, it’s our lifeblood.
We firmly believed that AI is coming in the 2020s, even though it felt like a crazy idea in the early 2000s. Around 80% of related scientists and researchers at the time believed that human level AI would take 100 years to develop. And here we are! 20 years of uncertainty and anticipation later, human level computer cognition is finally here. We dove right in, literally vibrating with excitement.
The Potential of AI
Artificial Intelligence means achieving thinking and learning on a non-biological substrate, e.g. a computer. This ability has finally been achieved, the latest AI techniques can match or outperform human level skill on a massive range of specific tasks, especially around written word and visual composition. AI is also far, far beyond human skill level in complex scientific tasks like drug discovery and protein folding.
Humanity now has human-level competence on tap. It’s hard to compare this development with any past technological advancements, maybe the development of language was the last comparable event in magnitude and importance. Intelligence is the most powerful force in the universe and humanity has just taken a big step towards mastering it.
We are on the cusp of unlocking abundance in most areas of life, from food, to education, to health, to art.
The Dangers of AI
We can see the frustration, worry, and even fear about AI technologies out there. In all honesty, we expected some pushback but were still surprised by the speed and intensity, since we’ve always seen this new technology as positive and anticipating it for decades. Of course there are always risks bundled with progress. If humanity did not push through the risks though, we would still mostly be subsistence farmers like our great grandfathers.
Humanity of course will have to work towards a compassionate application of new technologies as always. But we do not consider non-adoption a real option. Any countries that stifle progress in the field of AI will fade to insignificance very fast and it’s pretty clear that state leaders recognise this already.
It’s not that worries about AI are not real, there are even existential risks involved, it’s that the only viable solution is to work through them. “Stop using AI” is one of the worst approaches to the problem because then we allow someone else to decide how AI will be used. One of the worst outcomes for a population can be to allow a state actor with antithetical world views to be 100 times more advanced, becoming our de facto hegemon. We should deploy AI faster and more compassionately than those who would not.
A low risk, low societal repercussions industry like fashion is the least of humanity’s worries. An independent tiny design team of 5 people using AI technologies to the best of their abilities is an insignificant concern. We would argue that this should actually be promoted. We are worried about our relevance in the broader economy as well and we know that every major company in the world is deploying AI as fast as they can manage. We believe we can do it in our own unique way though and there can be value for society in this.
Our Thoughts
We can share our point of view about AI as designers and fellow humans and we will do just that in future posts. But we are talking about monumental, society shifting, once-in-history type of events here. The ethical implications are important and we believe it would be better if you read the writings of the best philosophers, technologists, and sociologists that humanity has to offer, rather than the views of a couple of designers.
We’ll share our point of view and experience in any case, for whomever these might be useful to. Many people insist that we explain ourselves anyway, so might as well we do. We are in favour of embedding AI in every appropriate human activity, in the most compassionate way possible. We don’t believe non-adoption is an option.
We can attempt to explain our stance over a few future posts. Writing thoughtful posts can possibly work better than answering to individual comments or emails. And as much as we’d love to chat with everyone, all 5 of us would be only answering comments all day if we tried that.
On that note, long arguments in the Facebook and Instagram comments improve the reach of our account because social media algorithms like and promote drama and that sort of thing. However we would prefer that everyone has thoughtful and deep discussions about AI and how humanity adopts it, rather than heated arguments on social so we will avoid playing the algorithms.
Coming Up
We’ll aim to write about a post per week covering one of the massive amount of topics touched above. From design to ethics, from job losses to geopolitics, from how to use AI responsibly to how to avoid bringing the End Times, there’s a lot worth talking about. We will try to give priority to subjects that we see people are concerned more about.
The Bottom Line
We believe that we can all work towards a bright future of abundance and prosperity, technology is always the main human effort towards this goal, our way of overcoming ourselves.
We’re committed to deploying new technologies compassionately and taking ethical decisions in life and business, which is never easy or simple. Yes this is the path we’ve always walked, regardless of how rough or winding it is.
Please go out there and read the writings of people much smarter than us. But if you would like to hear the non-expert but specialised opinions of a small indie design team then do keep an eye on this blog, follow us on social, etc to come back for the next blog post.
With love and optimism,
Michael and Eloise
Founders and Directors of Rogue + Wolf
Edit 01/03/2024: we wrote the next blog post about job losses AI and Job Transformation.
Edit 08/03/2024: our next blog post about AI photography and the future of photography
Edit 01/03/2024: we wrote the next blog post about job losses AI and Job Transformation.
Edit 08/03/2024: our next blog post about AI photography and the future of photography
Edit 15/03/2024: next we talk about fashion photography standards and how AI photoshoots are not that different.
Edit 23/03/2024: we rote about some more reasons why we use AI.
Edit 29/03/2024: we wrote some examples from other industries to bring our AI adoption arguments into focus.
Edit 29/03/2024: we wrote some examples from other industries to bring our AI adoption arguments into focus.
To Eloise and Michael,
I have been a customer and follower of your company for some time. I still own and value the 3D printed rings I first purchased from you when I was a teenager. And I have sat back with a heavy heart whilst this has unfolded. But I wanted to have a say in this discussion, as you so kindly invited us to do.
Whilst you have highlighted the very real potential that AI has for our future, you seem to have entirely glossed over the concern that your customers have: that being, your own use of it as an independent, ethical brand. Ethics are a guiding set of principles that one chooses to live their lives’ by, the driving force behind every decision one makes. By advocating for the use of AI in this particular sense – in full knowledge that the current technologies utilised by AI-generated images are based on virtual banks of stolen artwork and imagery – you are telling your user base that not only do you deem this course of action acceptable, but that you believe that it is just and fair. With these actions, you are condoning the theft of artwork, and the theft of the ability of real human people to make a living in the modelling industry. Perhaps the driving force behind your choice to utilise AI is money-saving? Completely understandable. As a small business in a highly competitive industry (as you have highlighted yourselves), you have to find ways to keep up with the competition. Perhaps these large competitors – Shein, Romwe, Temu and the like – even use AI themselves. And I would not be surprised to learn that they did. But right now, with AI at the level of development it is at, using this technology puts you in equal lighting of these infamously unethical brands. At its current stage of development, there is no way to “deploy AI … more compassionately than those who would not”. There is simply the ability to use it as it stands: that being, the unethical theft of pre-existing artwork, and use of non-consenting individuals whose likeness have been plugging into these databases.
When the atom was first split, it was used as a weapon. When the technology developed further, it was used to harness power, and change lives. Perhaps a poor comparison, but I’m sure that you will appreciate the similarities in this explanation. I am simply trying to convey the idea that, whilst AI imagery is still in its blossoming stages, perhaps this would not be the time to utilise it. I am wholly for technological progression, but would caution you against being too hasty. Right now, AI artwork is still unpolished, and powered by the theft of another’s time, effort and imagination. Perhaps in the future, when it has had time to come into itself, you may use this technology in the compassionate way that I’m certain that you wish to see it used.
I do believe that you are correct in your analysis of how, without the persistence of pushing through the risks of new and emerging technologies, progress would never have been made. However, I warn you to be mindful of such beliefs, and would remind you of how an unrestrained use of such a mentality has led to suffering, historically in the name of progress, as a result.
It does, however, seem as though you and your team are firmly resolute in your beliefs that you will continue down this path, regardless of the concerns of your customers. I wish you well in your endeavours, and hope that the lives you have always dreamed of will be available to you as a result. However, I would caution you to not lose yourselves in this pursuit. Listen to the concerns of your customer base. I understand entirely that Rogue + Wolf is your vision, your mind child, free for you to shape as you will. However, take into consideration that the customers who purchase your goods – who have seen value in the art that you yourselves put into the world – are the ones who will continue to fund your vision, and, ultimately, are the most important voice in the future of your company. These are likeminded individuals, who put the principles of slow, ethical fashion at the forefront of their purchases, choosing to buy your reasonably priced products over the £2 copycats over at large, mass-producing companies, who employ the use of modern day slavery in order to create their products, and fund their own dreams.
As I have said, I do wholeheartedly, and sincerely wish you well in your endeavours. As a small team, running an independent fashion brand it is admirable to see the progress you have made. It is just heartbreaking to see a company that I have looked up to for so long, fall out of favour in this way.
This post doesn’t read as inclusive at all.
It’s actually extremely disheartening that a small business would rather use AI (which is only created by uploaded images , most of which are stolen,) would intentionally use AI to harm other small businesses.
There are tons of factors and tons of costs to factor in as a business so I understand this prevalence to cut down on costs. However, using AI to create fake people to sell real world clothes makes very little sense. Your entire identity is based on how clothes look in real life,on real people which means you have to hire models. People gain no knowledge of what your clothes actually look like . This treads on the territory of scsm websites using rehashed images as this is what your company will look like.
There is very little positives and no matter how loud your echo chamber is, it doesn’t stop the reality of the disillusionment. As a business you sincerely and severely need to look ok at this properly and without the lens you currently have.
Eloise and Michael,
While AI can be used for very good things as you mentioned in this post (e.g. scientific research, finding potential cures for things, etc.), it is no ethical tool for the fashion industry, whether it be models or designs. As an artist who has loved this brand for years, I’m extremely disappointed about the direction Rogue + Wolf is headed. I will not make any purchases from your store from now on unless something changes. The models you once hired to represent the lovely designs you once sold were so much better and beautiful – whereas the recent additions are soulless and it’s just depressing. Please reconsider your choices if you want to keep your customers, especially the ones who have been with you for years.
This post acts as though there is some kind of philosophy to be discussed here. There isn’t. AI – the way it is currently used – is theft. Do you want to profit from theft? I will not be buying anything from you now.
Hi Michael and Eloise.
While I speculate you taking a stance and finally setting a lot of your customers questions, it has only reaffirmed that I, unfortunately, will never purchase from you. As a small business, I understand the implementation of AI can drastically improve several key elements in your business practice, but on the other side of the coin, you should understand that you’re taking jobs away from other people too. It costs you nothing to implement an ambassador program like so many other companies, and have REAL PEOPLE wearing your items in REAL PICTURES. If you want AI pictures generated for homewares, I guess, but clothes only fall naturally on a human. I can’t buy any of your clothes with the hopes it will fit me the same as your model, cause your model is literally a figment of someone else’s imagination, AI uses stolen photos from other artists and models, compositing them into one within your specifications. So not only are you withholding jobs from people, you’re stealing as well. If that’s where your ethics stand, this is no company for me. 🖤 Such a disappointment
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